Electric Bikes

Battery capacity is measured in watt-hours (Wh) and it sets how far you can go. But the range a manufacturer quotes is almost always measured in ideal conditions: flat road, light rider, minimum assist, warm weather.

In practice range depends on terrain, rider weight, tyre pressure, wind and above all on the assist mode. On the same battery you will cover two to three times less distance in Turbo than in Eco.

The ranges below reflect realistic expectations on mixed terrain. On Tbilisi gradients it is sensible to plan around the lower figure.

There are two main layouts, and the difference is obvious from the first ride.

A mid-drive motor sits at the bottom bracket and delivers power through the chain. Weight is carried centrally and low, so the balance stays natural. It works with the gears, which makes it more effective on steep climbs. Bosch, Shimano Steps, Yamaha and Giant SyncDrive are all of this type.

A hub motor is built into the rear or front wheel axle. The design is simpler and cheaper, and it works well on flat city routes. The downside: weight is concentrated at one end, and on a long steep climb the motor heats up faster.

This is one of the most common questions, and the answer has a technical half and a legal half.

The European standard EN 15194 defines a pedelec: 250 W nominal power, assistance only while pedalling, and up to 25 km/h. A bike within those limits counts as an ordinary bicycle in the EU. Models of 500 W and above are widely sold, but they fall outside that standard.

Important: the legal position varies by country and changes over time. If you are considering a model above 250 W, check the current local requirements on registration, minimum age and helmets before you buy.

Practically: watts measure power, but torque (Nm) is what you feel. For city riding 40-50 Nm is enough; for steep Tbilisi climbs and mountains, 65-85 Nm is better. A good 250 W mid-drive with 75 Nm will climb considerably better than a cheap 500 W hub motor.

Most of the price of an electric bike sits in two components: the motor and the battery. That is why the gap between a 2,500 GEL model and an 8,000 GEL one is wider than on conventional bikes.

• Do not leave it fully flat. Long storage at 0% is the worst thing for a lithium-ion battery. If the bike will sit unused, charge it to 40-60% first.
• Store it indoors in winter. Cold temporarily reduces capacity, and prolonged frost damages the cells permanently. Below -5 °C, do not leave the battery on the bike.
• Use the original charger. The wrong voltage damages the controller and voids the warranty.
• Little and often. Frequent partial charges (20-80%) preserve the battery better than rare full cycles.
• A lithium-ion battery typically holds up for 500-1,000 full cycles, after which capacity gradually declines. Cared for properly, that is several years of service.

• Hydraulic brakes, without exception. An electric bike weighs 22-27 kg and travels faster, so the braking system is asked to do more than on a conventional bike.
• The battery should be removable. Without a lift, or above the ground floor, carrying 25 kg upstairs daily is not realistic. A removable battery for charging indoors is essential.
• Frame weight limit. Electric bikes typically carry a combined limit of 120-140 kg including luggage.
• Service availability. Diagnostics and spares for Bosch, Shimano and Yamaha systems are far easier to obtain than for unknown brands.
• Separate battery warranty. Frame and battery warranties often differ in length - check them separately.

Worth it if you ride more than 5 km daily, have to climb Tbilisi gradients, do not want to arrive at work sweating, or need to reduce physical load for health reasons.

Not worth it if you mainly ride for fitness - a conventional mountain or road bike will give you far better components for the same money. Likewise if you must carry the bike into a flat and the battery is not removable: 25 kg every day is hard work.